Hi! I'm getting used to Github so go easy on me : )
This is for my configuration file for running Klipper on the FlashForge Creator Pro. My goal for this project is to revitalize a huge amount of open source 3D printer designs. I believe anything that runs a main control board based off the open source "MightyBoard" design would be a good candidate.
My files are configured for running one extruder, despite my Creator Pro having 2. I am planning on swapping the hotend for an e3d V6 clone. This is for flow, weight savings, increased speed, ease of maintenance, and availability of replacement parts. If you'd like to run the stock dual extruders, you can add another extruder in the config and add nozzle offsets in Cura, but most of the other settings should be the same.
Here's a list of designs that may benefit from my work:
- FlashForge Creator Pro Confirmed
- FlashForge Creator Pro Max
- FlashForge Creator
- FlashForge Creator X
- MakerBot Replicator 1 Dual
- MakerBot Replicator 2
- MakerBot Replicator 2X Confirmed
- CTC Bizer
- Monoprice Maker Architect
- PowerSpec 3D Pro
- Qidi Tech One Confirmed
- Wanhao Duplicator 4S Confirmed
A good amount of these designs have a really solid, stiff enclosure, and were built with pretty good quality parts from the factory, and are still in use. In fact, some are still being sold today!
Here's my machine configuration so you know what to expect when using my config file. X (Width): 266mm Y (Depth): 153mm Z (Height): 179mm Bed: Borosilicate (I believe slightly larger than the original) Nozzle: 0.4mm Control Board: SKR Mini E3 v3 Extruders: 1 (left one, closer to the part cooling fan) Hotend Temp Probe: Thermistor (not the stock thermocouple) !!!!!
As with any random files you download on the internet, read through the .cfg file before you do anything to make sure it fits the needs of your machine. You may have to re-scale the X and Y coordinates if you have a smaller bed.
To rescale the bed coordinates I manually jog the print head to find the furthest printable area still on the bed, and I consider that 0. Then I jog the print head until it's as far as it will go off the bed, and make that number a negative one. This ensures that the front left corner of the bed is 0,0.
For additional information, visit my website and check out the article I wrote on converting my FFCP to run Klipper.
https://msptrick.blogspot.com/2022/11/flashforge-creator-pro-control-board.html