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Alex Egony edited this page May 6, 2021 · 12 revisions

ZigBee stick v4 (Ebyte E72-2G4M20S1E module)

PCBs and firmware for boards based on Ebyte E72-2G4M20S1E module (cc2652p chip)


The entire family of coordinators based on cc1352p/cc2652p chips was given the general name ZigBee stick v4, because it based on and inherits the v3 stick.

Ebyte module (E72-2G4M20S1E) - was first cheap and available DIY module based on new cc2652p chip.

Before that, Ebyte released modules on cc1352p (E79-400DM2005S и E79-900DM2005S), but the amplifier was NOT connected to the 2.4GHz path in those modules. In addition, the 2.4GHz path only worked with the internal (pcb) antenna, which was poorly positioned for DIY devices.

The E72-2G4M20S1E module also uses PCB antenna, but you can solder an SMA connector to this antenna by cutting off some of the antenna tracks. Also you can use bottom pads on module for antenna connection.

One of the features of this module is that it uses generator and RF-Switch settings that are not compatible with Koen's Launchpad firmware. I had to do some reasearch and write my own coordinator firmware based on Koen's patches. It is strongly recommend to read the description of the firmware!

Koenkk now also supports this module in their firmwares. The firmware for Zigbeer E72 by Egony should be used. On March 2021, Koen's firmware does not support LEDs.

Modules can be flashed via jtag similar to the cc2538 chip, but CC1352P1F chip should be selected. You can also flash via jtag using Raspberry Pi, but this method does not always work.

After the first flashing via jtag, it is possible to flash without programmer, using the BSL - backdoor serial loader built into the chip. USB dongles are flashed via USB, shields (Pi hats) - directly on the single board computers. Flashing instructions - on this page.

Some modules come with BSL activated. They can be flashed first time without a programmer. But impossible to predict if BSL activated in a particular module.

Below you can see devices (ZigBee coordinators) based on these modules.

The sizes and types of components are the same as in the v3 stick:

  • C1,2 - tantalum, b-case or a-case.
  • C3,4 - 0805
  • R1-3 - 0805
  • LED1 - green, LED2 - red, 1206.
  • Buttons 3*4mm.
  • PCB thickness - 1.6mm.

Board for soldering SMA directly to the module.

To work with an external antenna, you must cut the traces of the built-in antenna and solder the SMA connector directly to them. You can skip the SMA and use the built-in antenna, but in this case it is better to cut the board by the line that divides the SMA part.

The traces marked red must to be removed and the soldering spots for the antenna connector must be cleaned.

Both USB-A and Micro-USB can be used.

The device uses a CH340C USB-UART chip (exactly "C" at the end!). Because of this, the port in the zigbee2mqtt config will NOT be ttyAMA0 or ttyACM0!

It will be something like this:

serial:
  port: /dev/ttyUSB0 # <--- specify which port appeared in the system when the stick was plugged in

advanced:
  baudrate: 115200
  rtscts: false

Gerber files of this board.

Case for printing for this board by ArtBrayko can be available here.

Shield (Pi Hat) for single board computers.

Shield for single board computers like Raspberry Pi, Orange Pi and others GPIO compatible. Must to be installed on the edge of the GPIO pins (for Raspbery Pi 2..4, there are pins 1-10).

Pay attention to the connection of the antenna contact of the module to the board - you need to precisely align the contact with the hole in the board and solder. The antenna traces on the module must be cut.

You must not solder R2 and R3.

You should know that the use of USB3 can negatively affect the performance of the shield (however, this is also true for USB sticks).

It is strongly recommend to read the notes for basic information to configuring single board devices.

Gerber files of this board.


Board for the factory case.

Board for the factory case VG-S48/AK-N-12

The circuit is completely similar to the first board. To work with an external antenna, it must to cut the traces of the built-in antenna and solder the SMA connector directly to them. The built-in antenna is not intended to be used. The case in the area of ​​the antenna connector will have to be slightly cut.

Both USB-A and Micro-USB can be used.

LEDs are soldered on both sides of the board.

Gerber files of this board.

How to buy

If you are interested in these devices and their newer versions - contact me in Telegram.