A repository containing specifications of the Sovol SV06 3D printer parts, as well as links to aftermarket replacement parts.
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Revision: SV06ZJB_V1.4
| Label | Connection | PCB Connection | Other Connection | Other info |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| P3 | Coldend fan | Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin | ||
| P2 | Extruder motor | Molex PicoBlade 4-Pin | JST PH 2.0 6-Pin | Cable length 12cm |
| P4 | Heater cartridge | JST PH 2.0 2-Pin | ||
| P8 | Thermistor | Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin | ||
| P6 | Probe | Molex PicoBlade 5-Pin | ||
| P5 | Part cooling fan | Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin | ||
| P7 | Filament sensor | Molex PicoBlade 3-Pin |
* Note, Molex PicoBlade are often mischaracterized as JST 1.25mm (the name under which they are usually sold online).
| Model | Material |
|---|---|
| Creality CR10 | Aluminum |
Notes:
- The heatblock is mounted onto the extruder assembly using
2 x M2.5 x 10mmSHCS. - Newer heatblocks appear to have a 3mm thermistor hole.
Any of these heatblocks will do just fine, however, they may require mounting bolts of different sizes.
- The Type C has 2mm and 3mm thermistor holes.
- I have the
Type C. The original mounting bolts will not be long enough, you will need 2 x M2.5 x 16mm FHCS (2 x M2.5 x 18mm FHCS will also work).
The SV06 uses a ceramic heater cartridge.
| Voltage | Watts | Dimensions | Connection | Cable Length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 24V | 50W | 6x20mm | JST PH 2.0 2-Pin | ~40mm |
The heater cartridge is glued into the heatblock, a heatblock that heats to 300C. Although possible, it is inadvisable, and potentially dangerous to attempt removal.
Unfortunately, a direct, non-DIY replacement seems unlikely. It appears that no one sells heater cartridges with JST PH 2.0 2-Pin connectors.
You would have to buy a heater cartridge such as this, and crimp the appropriate connector on.
| Material | Dimensions | Connection | Cable Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| Glass-bead | 2mm | Molex PicoBlade 2-Pin | ~40mm |
The thermistor is held in place with the help of a screw, and a generous amount of thermal adhesive. With the help of a heat-gun, and with great care, it can be removed.
- 3mm Tube Thermistor
- Please note that this thermistor will not fit in the stock heatblock. You need a heatblock that has a 3mm thermistor hole.
- 3mm Tube Thermistor 4 units
- Untested though it looks exactly the same as the option above.
- Cheaper than then first option.
- Please note that this thermistor will not fit in the stock heatblock. You need a heatblock that has a 3mm thermistor hole.
| Cooper Portion | Overall Length | Outer Dia. | Inner Dia. |
|---|---|---|---|
| 15mm | 22mm | 7mm | 2mm |
I purchased and tested this heatbreak.
- It works as well as the stock piece.
⚠️ It is 1mm shorter than the stock piece, so you will need a washer or spacer of some kind to 'increase' it's length. If you don't add a spacer, your part cooling duct will be exactly inline with the nozzle tip, meaning that the part cooling duct will drag across every new layer. The spacer must not be more than 7mm in diameter.
The part sold in the link could change, so make sure it has the following specs:
| Type | Thread |
|---|---|
| MK8 | M6 |
Any MK8 nozzle will do. You can even use a V6 style nozzle.
Any MK8 nozzle will be fine. I like these because they're chunky.
A Creality K1 nozzle seems like a suitable replacement (needs verification), however, it is 0.5mm shorter than the stock variant. You have to make use of a washer/spacer to correct for this, see Heatbreak, Aftermarket section.
I tested two random filament runout sensors that I had on hand. Both work just fine. It seems to me that any sensor with VCC, Ground, and Signal pins should work.
In order to get the filament sensor working, just make sure that the VCC, Ground, and Signal line up with the pins on the hotend PCB, port P7.
Alternate connection
You can connect the sensor directly to the motherboard's `Pre-set port`. By default, this port has the `DET` cable connected to it.In order to 'mount' the sensor while it's not in use, simply glue a small magnet onto the sensor. You can then stick the sensor onto the extruder motor. You might also want to tether the sensor to the extruder cable with a piece of string.
[filament_switch_sensor filament_sensor]
switch_pin: !PA4 # "Pulled-high"
pause_on_runout: True
insert_gcode:
M117 Insert Detected
runout_gcode:
M117 Runout Detected
The complete Klipper code to make this work is part of my OSS Klipper Configuration.
These can be found for very cheap (roughly $1.5) on Aliexpress and quite a bit more on Amazon (though still very affordable). This is the one I bought. Here's another seemingly viable option.
You need to make your own cable. I recommend getting these JST 1.25 cables, and this XH2.54 kit. You will also need a crimping tool such as the Engineer PA-09.
| Part | Voltage | Type | Measuring Distance |
|---|---|---|---|
| LJ12A3-4-Z-AX | 5V | NPN (normally closed) | ~4mm |
This probe: LJ12A3-4-Z-AX looks like a good candidate because the part number is the same, however, the voltage starts off at 6V. Completely Untested.
I bought this probe: LJ12A3-4-Z-BY. It's dimensionally correct, however, completely untested!
The parts from a DIY Orbiter V1.5 kit are suitable replacements for this extruder. I'll do a more thorough write-up eventually, but in the meantime, the only parts that differ in the Orbiter are:
- the 3 pronged stem is longer in the Orbiter though that should not be an issue.
- the flanged bearing has a larger OD in the Orbiter.
- I did not compare the filament gears.
After over 600 hours of print time, I saw hardly any wear on the gears in the extruder.
- This is the Orbiter kit that I bought and took measurements from, but any other V1.5 kit should do fine.
- Mellow has a great option as well.
I haven't seen this particular board around, though it should be easy enough to purchase from Sovol3d directly. Having said that, the SKR-Mini-E3-V2.0/V3.0 are viable replacements that fit perfectly in the stock motherboard enclosure, and likely cheaper than the original board. I would recommend the V3.0 over the V2.0 because I have a hardware guide and a Klipper configuration ready to go on my OSS repository, find link below.
| Axis | Qty | Length | Dia. | Lead | Pitch | Starts | Sovol Part # |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Z | 2 | 376mm | 8mm | 4mm | 2mm | 2 | JXHSV06-02003-a |
| Material | Dia. | Lead | Pitch |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyoxymethylene (type of plastic) | 8mm | 4mm | 2mm |
I have been unable to find direct replacements. I am using these, however, you will likely have to drill out the attachment holes with a 3mm drill bit (very easy and quick modification). Please note that I'm not using them as anti-backlash nuts, so that portion of these parts will likely go unused.
| Axis | Qty | Length | Dia. | Sovol Part # |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| X | 2 | 355mm | 8mm | JXHSV06-03001-a |
| Y | 2 | 340mm | 8mm | JXHSV06-01012-a |
| Z | 2 | 400mm | 8mm | JXHSV06-02004-a |
| Type | Part | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Linear bearing | LM8UU | 10 |
| Type | Qty | Dia. | Length | Motor Shaft Dia. | Lead Screw Dia. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rigid | 2 | 20mm | 25mm | 5mm | 8mm |
| Brand | Part | Length | Width |
|---|---|---|---|
| GATES | PowerGrip GT2 LL-2GT | ~1.5m | 6mm |
Two meters will handle both the Y and X axis.
Coming soon.
| Brand | Model | Wattage | Voltage |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cheng Liang | P360W24V | 360W | 24V |
| Part |
|---|
| XT60H-M/F |
| Printer | Part | Pitch |
|---|---|---|
| SV06 | JST-XA | 2.54mm |
| SV06 Plus | JST-XH | 2.54mm |
| Location | Motor | Height | Peak current | Step angle |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Extruder | Nema 17 | 22 | 0.8A (needs verification) | 1.8° |
| X-Gantry | Nema 17 | 34 | 1.3A | 1.8° |
| Y-Axis | Nema 17 | 34 | 1.3A | 1.8° |
| 2 x Z-Axis | Nema 17 | 34 | 1.3A | 1.8° |
- In case you need to replace it, you can probably fit a stepper motor with a height of 42mm.
- A stepper motor with a height of 40mm will certainly fit.
- Adjusting the connectors will likely be required for any replacement stepper.
- If using Klipper, it will be very easy to adapt the
printer.cfgfor these steppers. - If using Marlin, you will either have to compile your own firmware, or it might be possible to adjust the current via the menu.
- The links for aftermarket options have good specifications, however, they are completely untested.
- X-Gantry and Z-Axis
- I would go for the 42mm height steppers myself.
- Y-Axis
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This repository is a work in progress. Watch for updates:
- OSS Sovol SV06 Klipper Configuration
- RP2040-Zero ADXL345 Connection Klipper
- ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Ellis' Print Tuning Guide
- Simplify3D Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide
