- Set of metric hex wrenches ("keys") from at least 1.5 - 5
- Screwdrivers
- Crimpers
- Molex
- Ferrule
- Needle nose pliers
- Diagonal wire cutters, small
- Wire strippers from 16 gauge to 28 gauge
(coming soon)
Nero's video series on assembling a V2.4
- Avoid Excessive Force
- Take your time, measure twice.
- This is not rocket science (it's garden tools), we do not need 0.001mm precision.
- A granite countertop or other similarly flat surfaces helps with rail alignment to ensure a square frame
- Measure diagonals to check squareness
- Using blind joints extrusions may rotate. This will be prevented by the panel corners and skirts later in the build
- The assumed standard washer thickness is 1mm. Washer thickness varies, so washer counts in the manual are meant as guidance. Your washer count may vary. Also, it may be useful to have 0.5mm washers at hand to align pulleys and bearings optimally in your build
- Make sure your pulleys are GT2/2GT!
- Make sure your pulleys do not wobble. Just rotate them on a shaft and look for eccentric movement of the teeth. The flanges are not critical.
- Use gates GT2/2GT belts for the open loop belts!
- A bit of shaft lean is fine
- Make sure that all z belts are of equal length and both gantry belts are of equal length!
- Hemostats help a lot when tensioning the gantry belts if you don't have a helping hand
- Do not cut belts flush, leave a bit for adjustments or reassembly
- The gantry can be assembled and belted before you fix it to the frame.
- Routing the belt in the a/b drives looks tricky, but there are several ways to ease this:
- Fix something stiff like a cable tie or some wire to the end of the belt to help with routing
- Use dental picks to guide the belt
- Screws should not be too tight to allow movement when doing quad gantry adjustments
- Gantry should be squared with equal belt tension. Tension gantry belts with the toolhead at the front center position
- Measure both diagonals to ensure squareness