This project were made for the educational programming class "Programming Interactive Experiences" as part of Computer Science & Informatics, hence the name.
The projects vision is to create "seamless" way to unlock your door through you mobile phone, purely based on it's presence.
If you like me, have keys for many houses or buildings, then your set of keys can become quite huge and heavy, and bothersom to carry around. Hence it would be nice if any door you come near, simply unlocks for you, either on it's own ( yes magic exicsts, its called science ), or by clicking a button, eliminating the need for you to fumble with a half hundred keys, to find the right one, as well as having to carry the keys arond in the first place.
I will show you, how I have managed to make a prototype of this magical wonder. If you wonna see how the end result looks like, then click HERE
To follow what I have done, you'll be needing the following
- 1 breadboard - I'll be using & suggest a board between 10-30
- 1 Wemos with a Wi-Fi chip - I'll be using a model "ESP 8266" ( the important part is Wi-Fi capabilities)
- 1 Servo + it's moutings - I'll be using a model "Tower Pro MG995 - Digi HI-Speed"
- 1 Button - Clickedy click
- 6-8 cables - I'll let you pick your own colours. I'll be using 2 red, 2 brown, 1 orange, 1 purple, 1 grey & 1 black
- Acces to a gluegun
- Access to a laser cutter - Pew Pew *laser gun noise*
- Access to box material - I'll be using 3mm wood
- Access to a 3D printer - A small one, one that can print 5x5cm
- Access to a sodder station - I'll be asuming that you know how to sodder
- Access to a drill - Either hand or stationary should do
- Access to makercase.com - To design your own case
- Access to Arduino
- Breadboard, wemos, servo, button and cables
This is what you should aim for in this section
- Your servo, as well as my own, will not look like the one on the picture, it is simply there to illustrate, as there is not one who looks like the one we are going to use, in the Fritzing program which I used to make the schematic. That also means that the servo'scable colors does not match entirely with reality. Hopefully any confusion cause by this, will go away when pictures of the real prototype comes into play.
I'll start by explaning the cables, and their usage. (bear in mind that on the picture, there is only shown 6 cables attached to the breadboard, though I said we would need 8, this is not a mistake, and I will explain why later)
Black cable -> The black cable is a ground extension cable. It allows for conversion of 1 ground (G) pin into a row of ground pins. All pins in the same row as the black, and continued down along the side of the wemos, becomes ground, this is necessary because we need a ground for both our servo, and our button.
Red cable -> The red cable is the power cable, going from the 5V (5 Volt) pin on wemos to the servos red cable. Giving the servo electrical power.
Brown cable -> The brown cable is the ground cable, going from the 2nd most outer nr. 4 pin, to the servos brown.
Orange cable -> The orange cable is the signal cable, going from the D4 pin (Wemos D4), to the servos orange. ( If you stop here, you'll be having a working servo )
Purple cable -> The purple cable is the ground, going from the 2nd most outer nr. 6 pin, to the buttons NO "pin".
Grey cable -> The grey cable is the signal, going from the D6 pin (Wemos D6), to the nuttons C "pin". ( Now both your servo, and button should be working )
With your servo you'll most likely have gotten a small back of different kinds of attachments, small plates and arms, as well as screws and rubber disks, I have used the biggest one that came with it, for creating one of the core parts in the project, and the way that the servo can turn the locking bolt.
The 3D printed mounting device, which holds onto the locking bolt, and connects the servo, turning the servos rotation into an action that can unlock a door. I've glued it onto the black disk which sits/grips onto the head of the servo. Get the center of the disk and the center of your locking mount, to be synchronised for the best, and smoothes performance. If it's a little off, it won't ruin everything.
Your bolt might differ from my own, so you'll have to do your own measurement and modeling to get it right. But here is a picture of my solution. Locking mount image
If you have some experience with programming, most of this code will probably be self-explanatory for you, but if you don't, then fear not, I've commented my part of the code, to a degree that I believe make it understandable to everyone, with just a slight experience with programming.
I suggest a reading of the files in the following order:
As some parts of my project is build on another persons work, there will be places containing this kind of blocks
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
// ----------------------- My code -----------------------
This means that the code within the blocks is my work, and that outside of it, is not
// ----------------------- My code -----------------------
///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
I suggest that you test out the funtionallity before you continue, to make sure it works, and works as you want it to.
My case have been cut in 3mm wood plates, with 5mm fingers/teeths. There isn't much more to say about the box itself. There are 2 holes in it. 1 for the lockbolt to stick through, and one for the power wemos powercable & the 2 cables for the button to go through.
You can find my case schematic here: Origional Schematic
You may need to convert it to a different file type, or make small changes to the boxs design, I did both myself.
( If you need to do so, I suggest using CoralDraw, it can both convert to a different file-type and make changes to the design )
The case I'm using, has 1 change in it, I've added an additional oval hole, for easier mounting on the front.
The schematic for that can you get here: Updated Schematic
The 2 holes in the box should be in opposite "ends" of each other.
If your wemos board has a tape buttom then you can stick it to the inside-top of the box. ( Make sure your whole is in the right position so that the wemos power cable fits nicely through without having problems. I had a problem with my first prototype ) Opposite of the oval hole in my schematic.
Next up is to glue the Servo to the inside of the panel with the small circular hole. *** Remember to allign the Servos "knob" to fit with the lockbolt. E.g. mount the 3D printed lock mount for a better allignment ***
Now you'll have to do a little dirty work. You'll need to find a drill that matches the screws in your lock, the lock you want to use the project on.
Now you have to find a way to mark how far apart and at what height the screws are located, then drill the 2 holes around the oval hole in the panel. ( A good way to check that the panel fits well onto the door, is simply to screw that single panel up ontot the door )
Now, if your cables are in place, then you can pretty much put the box together, to look at to make sure it all fits and is allignt nicely. If you want to test it right away, you can put it up on the door and hold it together with few rubberband.
! I suggest gluing the box together for a good solid build. However also I suggest letting the panel opposite of the one where the lockbolt is gonna go through, and one of the side panels remain unglued for an easier un/mounting to the door !
Now you should have something that looks identical, or closely the same, as what I have. ( You can comapre with the images below ) Now your only thing is to test that everything still works, and then screw it up on the door, and then you are good to go.
